Depending on the light in your specific scene, however, you may not get a perfect silhouette in the camera. The goal is to have a totally dark subject with a properly exposed background. Note: We recommend using a relatively small aperture, like f/8 or f/11, to keep your subject tack sharp and to create a deep depth of field, which keeps more of the photo in focus and is generally what you want in a silhouette. For example, when outdoors, point your camera at the sky, lock in the settings for a proper exposure, and then reframe the shot and take a test image.
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If you’re more comfortable with your camera’s manual settings, you can jump-start this process by metering for the background. If you’re using manual exposure, you can adjust either shutter speed or aperture in a semi-manual mode, turn exposure compensation down to –1 to start, take another test shot, and continue from there.
Snap a picture and see how it looks - if your subject is too bright, simply turn down the exposure. It may not be the most elegant solution, but the simplest way to figure out the proper exposure for a silhouette is to guess and check.
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Most cameras, including phones, have some form of exposure compensation - see our guide on the feature for how to use it. Combined with exposure compensation, you’ll be able to fully control the look of the image. This will let you set your aperture, while the camera controls the shutter speed automatically. If you’ve never taken your camera off auto mode or aren’t yet comfortable in manual mode, aperture priority is probably the easiest way to go. Next, switch to manual exposure or a semi-manual mode, like shutter priority or aperture priority. This isn’t a requirement for a silhouette, but it will grant you more flexibility to tweak the image later compared to shooting a JPEG. If your camera supports it, we recommend setting the file type to RAW (check out the best RAW photography apps for your phone). Silhouettes often work best when they are simple. While the light is most important, don’t ignore the rest of the composition. Outdoors, watch out for “natural reflectors” that could be bouncing light back into the scene, like water, windows, or white or light-colored walls and other surfaces. When shooting indoors, for example, turn off the interior lights and draw the curtains on any windows not being used to create the backlight. Working inside, placing your subject in a doorway or in front of a bright window another way to create a silhouette.Īny light in front of the subject will make the silhouette harder to achieve.
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